Sunday, 26 June 2011

Why Not To Shop In Brazil

International journeys starting in Brazil are exempt, thanks to some abnormally brilliant Brazilian law, the normal baggage restrictions of international airline travel.  So, while economy passengers on all other global routes are only allowed two paltry 23 kilo bags, those flying from and to Brazil get to max out their two bags to 32 kilos a piece, without paying excess.

I customarily fill every last milligram of my allowance - and that of my kids - with the fruits of an obscene month-long European shopping spree.  Usually a roof-box and trailer are required to get us to the airport with our 200 kilo load at the end of the holiday.  I justify it as a means to save money, because I essentially buy the non-perishable goods required for entire year, from nappies and toothpaste to christmas and birthday presents, and avoid buying anything aside from groceries in Brazil.  It's just too expensive to shop here, and I'm pretty sure I almost compensate for the cost of the flights.

If the price of goods wasn't enough, the exasperating purchasing process here is enough to dampen the  appetite of even the most rabid shopaholic.   First off, many Brazilian clothing stores follow the fifties' shop model, with many goods behind a counter manned with overly helpful assistants.  You can't just browse the racks to find stuff yourself.  Instead, you are obliged to be 'served' by a girl with a massive grin and a name that for some reason she thinks you need know, who will fetch what you request along with a collection of garments you wouldn't be seen dead in.

If you do decide to go ahead with a transaction, you must be prepared for the multi-hooped circus act that is checking out.  It usually works like this:  The assistant who has been serving you will issue you with a numbered ticket and ask you how you want to pay.  (If you pay cash you will probably get a 5% discount).  She will send you (without your goods) to the back of the store to the cashier, an invariably dour looking woman sitting behind a glass screen.  Do not be surprised if this lady asks you for your vital statistics, such is the detail of personal information that is required even to buy a pair of socks.  She will also ask you if you want to pay upfront (a vista) or in multiple interest-free installments (parçelado).  Once you pay, she will duly stamp your ticket 'PAGO' and send you to another area of the shop to pick up your goods, which in the meantime have been bagged up.  It's a frustrating, inefficient system that can mean 3 different queues, and requires 3 times more staff than necessary.

But for newcomers to Brazil, the frustration can set in long before you even set foot in the store.  In order to shop you obviously need access to your money.  Sound simple?  Far from it.  Opening a bank account is the first hurdle, and can take months while you wait for your official residency ID.  But even with that first box ticked, you have two more hurdles: getting into the bank and operating the cash machine.   You can take nothing for granted!  When I first arrived in Sao Paulo, I tearfully aborted the first two attempts to get into the front door of the bank.  I couldn't yet speak the language and was intimidated by the metal-detecting revolving door and the armed security guard shouting instructions at me from behind his bullet-proof screen.  I just didn't understand what I was supposed to do (remove everything from my handbag and put them in a transparent container in the revolving door).   It sounds pathetic, but I just turned around and fled! 

And the cash machine amazes me every time to this day  Withdrawing cash is akin to dancing the hokey kokey:  You put your cash card in.  You pull your cash card out.  In, Out, In, Out and shake it all about.  Do the hokey kokey and your turn around.......Seriously, I have to put the bank card into the machine and take it out again a total of three times just to withdraw a tenner.  I have to punch my pin code in at least twice, and even that isn't straight forward - it's in a type of code whereby you press one button if the digit you want to input is a 1 or a 3, another if it's a 5 or a 7, another if it's a 9 or a 0 etc. (If you don't manage, you can always resort to using your cheque book, but I've lost count of the number of times my signature has not been deemed to match the one the bank has on file. )

Sigh....what a moaning Minnie post.  I think it's because the annual holiday is so close I can almost touch it.  Bring on that shopping spree.


  1. THe hokey pokey debit card thing had me rolling (albeit quietly as to not wake the sleeping husband) because it is OH SO VERY TRUE! for the shopping...*sigh* i just miss one stop shopping. i hate needing to go to a million different places...and of course if they have what you are looking for, it's like winning the lottery!

    1. I think that internet shopping is comfortable and saves your time.

  2. Hahaha--the hokey pokey. And what to do about those damn revolving doors. I almost start hyperventilating every time I have to go through, and every time, I get stuck....

  3. Brazil sounds very frustrating for newcomers,
    it's interesting to see your point of view about the shopping experiences,
    hence the famous saying "Brazil is not for beginners", I every day get to the conclusion that this sentence makes a lot of sense...
    Banks in Brazil are light years ahead of Europe and the US, they have very sophisticated systems, from the ATMs to the back operations, the rotating doors are actually a demand from the UNIONS of the Bank workers to improve overall safety, it bugs the hell out of me too... :)


  4. I think most stores I ve been to do not have the 3 steps system u said....most of the stores are "regular" stores similar one find in the us or europe.
    i think banking in brazil is more efficient than europe (besides the LONG lines)

  5. @Anonymous
    You probably shop in the more 'sophisticated' areas than I do! Go to any of the shops in the center (ie ruas Alfandaga, Buenos Aires and Senhor dos Passos) and that is by far the most common system! As for the banking, there is no way you could walk into a Brazilian bank and say you need a new bank card and walk out with it 10 minutes I did in the US....or go to a bank at I did in the US. I guess it depends what our metrics our for bank efficiency....mine are all about making my life easier, not so much about the behind the scenes stuff I don't see!

  6. i think banking in brazil is more efficient than EUROPE. The US is better , I agree w you.
    I dont shop in the more 'sophisticated' areas , I shop at regular stores.
    I was just talking about my experience in brazil in general not the city center of rio de janeiro.

  7. Oooh, this brings back memories that I had somehow suppressed, and now as I head back to Brazil makes me want to shop even more here. I swear that my husband and I are stocking up on personal belongings that will last us a year.

  8. Totally laughed out loud at the hokey pokey. I had a horrendous time a few weeks ago with the revolving doors. With a VERY long line amounting nothing was getting me inside that bank... note to self only bring a wallet when going to the bank. I ended up dumping my entire bag of notebooks, tampons, food... etc to get the damn door to open! Ugh!

  9. I read this to my husband and we couldn't stop laughing! SO true. The silly ATM thing...and the innumerable codes (especially for online and phone banking)...if expats didn't make fun of the inefficiencies and little frustrations, it would be unbearable, I think, to be a foreigner anywhere!

  10. It's a running joke that I never make it in the bank on the first try. :)

  11. I had to go to the bank 4 times and spent a total of 5 hours there just to open my account.

    Shopping here is ridiculous and so is banking! The only thing 'more advanced' about banking in Brazil is that you can transfer funds between accounts and banks. And that is all.

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  13. Lindsey,

    Transfer among banks in Brazil is not the only thing more advanced about Brazilian banks.
    I have been working in the Banking industry for 25 years now, in the US, Canada, Europe and Brazil, trust me, Brazilian banks are light years ahead of all the countries mentioned.
    US and European banks buy software and systems from Brazilian banks all the time, which is actually part of my job.
    4 trips to a bank a 5 hours to open a bank account sounds more like a a lack of proper documents and a learning experience about the Brazilian banking system rather than an issue with inefficiency on their part. Maybe perhaps a very poorly managed local bank branch where you live in Brazil.


  14. Ha- I have to say that the hokey pokey made me laugh out loud and I had to show my husband!

    As for being more advanced I guess it's all behind the scenes and gets lost in inefficiency and lack of organization. The public sees a very different side! Even with all our paper work in order it still took over 2 for our ATM card to work correctly and the account to be functional.


  15. This comment has been removed by the author.

  16. Dear Sara,

    The fact that you had a bad experience setting up an ATM card doesn't change the reality of the Brazilian banking system, be that in the background or the customer service experience.
    I always had a great customer service experience when doing business with Brazilian banks, I never had a problem and I know many, many people who also had great experiences.
    There are just some things you don't do. For example, you should never go to a bank on a Monday after a holiday, unless you enjoy long lines, etc, etc...
    Most Brazilians nowadays just go to their banks once to open their accounts, after that, everything is done over the internet or on ATM's.
    You just have to learn the system and you will understand it and have a better customer service experience.


  17. I am really not looking for forward to shopping in Brazil for ANYTHING. And that goes for the supermarket. I like the way things are done in the US. Their is more to choose from, and better prices which is really confusing to me. Its a consumers paradise, and Brazil has in no way caught up because they don't have a strong enough consumer base to have companies from all over the world fighting for space on their shelves. It is going to take a lot of getting used to living in Brazil.

  18. So question... I am just looking into Brazilian culture and possibly moving there to live and start a few businesses.Whats wrong with the shopping( food and clothing)? I am also looking to start wine company and import It to America. I thought it would be easier to do that than start in America and export to brazil. Am I wrOng in thinking? I also have three kids that I have to think about- how is the schooling? Are they in need of Americans to teach English?I am also a fitness instructor and can teach all classes is that needed in brazil? What about cosmetics or children's clothing?
    How is the pay? Sooo many questions if you have any suggestions or answers please e-mail me

  19. Hi there,
    I think banking in the Uk is the best! I was totally frustrated in Brazil not being able to draw the money out from ANY cashpoint but only from the designated bank, etc. I think the Brazilian banking system is totally visitors unfriendly. NOt being able to have access to your money and going through so many procedures only creates further risks like having to carry cash on you all the time.

  20. Look the main problem about shoping in Brazil has to do with taxes, here (BRazil) we pay taxes over other taxes (no kidding), so many products (especially electronics) are just too abnormaly expensive compared to anywhere else, the only thing that is cheaper here is fruits apart from that nothing. The other problem has to do with brazilian way to manage companys, everything is burocratic, we brazilians make a lot of jokes about it all the time, belivieve me its not just banks that make you sit and wait for what looks like centuries, almost everything does that to you, our companys are just terrible when it comes to consumer service, just try to go into a HSBC bank to do something and compare to bank of Brazil, in HSBC everthing is quick and simple, with bank of Brazil is just ridiculous the amount of time you spend to take care of very simple things. And you have both in the same country. And off course that are always those morons, people who could make things easier for their clients but never do because of stupid company policies, here it goes one true story example with the call center of bank of brazil...
    Client - Hello I m having a problem with a store, Im here in New York and need to know if a store I bought some electronics debit the right amount in my credit card.
    Call center person - Ok but first give me your complete name, numbers of the credit card, date of birth, ID and CPF.
    Client - Ok
    Call center person - Are you the owner of the account?
    Client - No, my father is.
    Call center person - Sorry but we cant help you.
    Client - But I called the other day and somebody from VISA told me to speak with somebody of bank of Brazil who told me to call this number to get this information from you...
    Call center person - This person was wrong.
    Client - BUT I REALLY NEED THIS INFORMATION, and the credit card is in my name..., I can shop with it but I cant know what is being debited from it....?
    Client - What I supposed to do?
    Call center person - Well you can make can make a complain on consumer affairs about the person who give you the wrong information.
    Client - Is this going to solve my problem?
    Call center person - No.
    Client - So why are you telling me to do this?
    Call center person - Thats all I can do for you.
    I just hung up
    Here it is a little taste of the incredible brazilian banking system, I totally desagree with you (Ray and Gil) about the amazing brazilian banking system and how serve its costumers...
    PS: sorry for the bad english

  21. I love this defence of the Brazilian banking system in some of these comments. The fact that banks are packed with people trying to do very simple things in queues that last hours just shows that Brazilians do use their branches regularly. The fact that as a foreigner, you need years of experience to know which ATMs in which particular banks and which particular branches of those banks will accept a foreign card, suggests it is not years ahead of other countries (Europe incidentally is more than one country).As for trying to buy something online with an overseas card don't even get me started. Yes I know I should have a Brazilian account, but 2 months later we are still waiting for the cashcard to arrive!

  22. Great point, I am Brazilian and living in Ireland ,the bank system works the same way as in UK, I have been in Aberdeen before and I know. Here you can go and withdraw money from any ATM doesn't matter if it's not from your bank, in Brazil you can do that only in specific ATM , the read ones called 24 horas , also opening a bank here in Ireland , it takes seven days to get your bank card and passwords , in Brazil you go to the bank with proper documents open in the same day , you may not have your debit card, but you already know you bank number and internet banking system can be used.Another think that really bothers me is that money transfer from your own bank takes up to 3 days, while in Brasil is automatic.I love and hate both systems, as in live there is always something that you lose and gain .

  23. Oh how I feel your pain. I also stopped buying all goods aside from groceries in Brazil for the exact same reasons you described. I'll load up my bags with spices, quality whiskey, clothes etc for the year ahead.

    My pet hate at the moment is customers not bagging their own goods, which I find shameful.

  24. HAHAHAHAHHAHA I totally have the same problems when shopping...that's why I shop in NYC. I hear there's this cool upscale Brazilian party going on in NYC for labor day weekend. It's going to be at Skyroom Rooftop and Dream Hotel Ava Rooftop. If you want to go, you have to email for tickets.
    Here's a link to the banner:

  25. Hi!I found your Blog and I really liked!
    My name is Silvia and I live in The Netherlands but I'm from Rio de Janeiro.
    What you told about the stores is sooo true.I'm very happy that in Holland I can just search my own thing without ''help'' of any sales person...

  26. Aren't you going to write more? This must be my bad luck day. I am not in the least interested in Brazil but your blog is the funniest thing I've come through in a long while, so I will join as a follower in case you keep writing.
    By the way, I realize now that my blog isn't funny at all, pretentious may be, that can be funny too! :-)

  27. Ha, you´re not kidding, the other day I went looking for some mascara for work...30 REAIS!! I need a serious care package from the U.S.
    The shopkeepers remind me of Europe, though they´re much friendlier...once I was in a bra shop in France and although the bra she trying to sell me obviously didn´t fit, the lady started to argue with me that it was the best they had so what did I mean I wasn´t going to buy it...

  28. Beside agreeing with you about many itens you´ve listed here, there´s one thing here that banks here do very well, internet banking is way nicer than in the US.

    I´d like to exchange link with your blog, how can we do that?

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  30. I stumbled across your blog this afternoon and loved this post! It's so true about shopping here for clothes, not only are most things super-over-priced, but the hassle you have to go through is insane. There are so many sales associates trying to push other items on you to buy (usually while you're in the dressing room) and then finally, when you want to pay and have to wait, usually 10 minutes or more. A smart business would try to close the deal (ie PAY as soon as possible) end of story. But no, here, I find myself pondering my soon-to-be purchases whilst waiting to actually pay for them, and most of the time, I change my mind on a few things and put them aside, which results in a loss to the store. WAKE UP store owners...staff more people on the registers, and not so many annoying people on the floor. You'll increase your sales. And about the banks, I remember the first time I had to navigate an atm alone, I couldn't believe all of the steps involved just to withdrawl $, but now I'm a pro, I can even do transfers (silly but an accomplishment). And when you have to pay a bill and the scan bar thing isn't working and you have to manually type in all of the 60 of them without making a mistake! In terms of waiting, I think Caixa is the worst, I think Itau is the best, especially since they bought Unibanco so now there are a lot more Itaus. Secret tip about Itau in Rio, the BEST branch is at Santos Dumont airport. There is never a line, the Bank Manager there, Marta, is a doll...if I ever have complicated things to do, I go to that branch, saves me tons of time and stress. And NO revolving security doors to boot!

  31. I heard there are lots of sale going on there. I mean almost daily.

  32. Hi Tasha! how are you?

    My name is Gilda, and I work with several hostels in Argentina, Chile, Brasil, Perú, Uruguay y Bolivia. We are looking to exchange links with interesting regional blogs and websites, and we find yours, and we really liked it. Would you like to exchange links with us?

    We could put your link in the following blogs:

    In exchange, I would ask you to put the following links in your web:

    Title: Hostel Rio de Janeiro
    Description: Che Lagarto Hostel em Rio de Janeiro está localizado no Rua Barata Ribeiro 111, Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

    Title: Hostel Santiago
    Description: Hostal Providencia in Santiago de Chile is located in Av. Vicuña Mackenna 92, Santiago de Chile.

    Title: Hostel Florianopolis
    Description: Che Lagarto Hostel in Florianopolis is located in Prefeito Acácio Garibaldi S. Thiago Av 300, Lagoa da Conceicao, Florianopolis, Brazil

    Title: Hostel Paraty
    Description: Che Lagarto Hostel in Paraty is located in Rua Benina Toledo do Prado 22, Paraty, Brazil.

    Title: Hostel Ilha Grande
    Description: Che Lagarto Hostel in Ilha Grande is located in Vila de Abraão, Canto da Praia S/N, Ilha Grande, Brazil.

    Title: Hostel Buzios
    Description: Che Lagarto Hostel in Buzios is located in Rua Da Paz 7, Buzios, Brazil.

    If it’s ok for you, please send me an email telling me how you’d like your link, and I’ll add it. Thanks!

    Best wishes,

  33. Cool posts, so many true observations. I loved the bit about the overly helpful shop assistants. I often feel intimidated by this. Yesterday a certain Daniele or whatever her name was offered to help me choose... knickers! Brrr...
    Anyway, pay a visit to my blog from Sao Paulo if you wish!

  34. Those who purchase large amounts of merchandise in other countries: Do you not get charged large taxes on entry into Brazil?

  35. Loved the post! I'm getting ready to plan my first trip back home in over a year and I'm going to use up every kilo of my luggage to bring back clothes and other necessities that are just priced out of control here. I have to say, however, that I enjoy the shopping system here... I just stay in the changing room and the girl brings me tons of stuff to try on. I tell her my price range and what i want and it all shows up! No headaches of going through the racks. The whole caixa thing and going to pick up your goods at another place is pretty ridiculous, but it helps them give more jobs to more people so I guess I'm for that, at least. And the hokey pokey... everyone loved that and it is SO true. The frist time i went to use my card i had already put it back into my wallet and back into my purse and then it asked for it again.. and again... i was so confused thinking I had gotte my password wrong. LOL. Get back to blogging, girl! Love it.

  36. Just found your blog and am enjoying the read! I blog, too, as an American living in Búzios. I recently did a post on my inability to browse, and other shopping challenges, at
    Kind of complements yours! Beijos, Barbara

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  38. Hey,
    You can't be that surprised... how long you're living in Rio? I'm here for 7 months and I'm getting used to it. I think the most boring was opening bank account for my company. Real pain in the ass. I also run a blog about Rio de Janeiro but I'm livin in other social level - favela. Greetings from Gringo in Rio

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